Bobbi Brown
Fresh-faced gleam for an olive complexion
"This is a classic look that I love for spring. Blend a little bronzing gel everywhere the sun would naturally hit your face—the forehead, cheeks, and bridge of the nose—then swirl a tawny blush on the apples of your cheeks for a natural flush. To keep your eyes light, blend a creamy white shadow over your lids. Finish up with lots of mascara and a berry lip balm."
Gordon Espinet
Night drama for an olive complexion
"I love a smoky eye in the spring, but with a more relaxed effect. Define the inner rims of your lashes with a graphic black liner; then blend a purple-tinged gray over the lids. A matte black shadow blended at the outer corners will give you a little more va-va-va-voom. Rosy blush would be too sweet with your eyes made up like this, so just use a bit of bronzer along the cheekbones. Skip liner and lipstick in favor of a simple pinky nude gloss."
Vincent Longo
Pink and polished for an olive complexion
"A deep, iridescent pink eyeshadow looks wonderful on dark or medium skin tones. Smudge a deeper purple shadow along the upper and lower lashlines to add definition. You can concentrate bronzer on the apples of your cheeks and then blend it out to eliminate harsh lines. Use a lip liner that matches your natural lip color, and top it with a shimmery light beige gloss."
Bobbi Brown
Healthy flush for a fair complexion
"If you're very fair, purple can be beautiful on your eyes, cheeks, and lips. You can do a soft, grayish one like the one I chose here, or bright pop-y ones. On the lids, apply the finest veil of vivid purple, and on the cheeks, a rose-tinged purple. Finally, top a baby pink tinted lip balm with a sheer violet gloss."
Gordon Espinet
Pop of color for a fair complexion
"The focus here is on the lips, but that doesn't mean you should leave your eyes bare. After brushing the palest pink shadow over your lids, play up your lashes with a few coats of black mascara. You don't want pink lips to be too bubblegum so, on pale skin, you need to line them with a darker pencil, like the plummy pink I used here. (Olive or brown skin, however, can handle bright pinks straight up.) Always use a lip brush when applying dramatic lipcolors; you need to be very precise."
Vincent Longo
On the town look for a fair complexion
"I love dazzling jewel tones on the eyes in the spring and summer, but you should keep the rest of the face very understated. Try blending green shadow all over your lids, and then put just a bit of a rose tone under the brows. A delicate rose-petal pink on your cheeks balances the brightness of your eyes and warms up pale skin. A very soft pink gloss is all the color you need on your lips."
Bobbi Brown
Sporty flash for a tawny complexion
"Bronze eyeshadows with cool undertones, like the one I chose here, are stunning on women with darker, warm complexions. The color stands out, but the effect is very natural. On your cheeks, you can top a deep rose cream blush with a bright apricot powder; the combination is subtle on brown skin and won't draw attention away from your eyes. All your lips need is a coat of sheer cocoa gloss."
Gordon Espinet
Amped-up natural look for a tawny complexion
"Pink eyeshadows are perfect for spring. Concentrate the color on the upper lashline and blend until it's completely sheer by the time you reach the crease. I smudged a more reddish-brown shadow very close to the upper lashline to tone down the pink a bit, to keep it warm and natural. Blush on your cheeks should be a soft pink and your lips should be rosy, but not heavily outlined."
Vincent Longo
Glamour eyes for a tawny complexion
"Women with darker skin can carry strong colors on both the eyes and lips. Vibrant blue eyeshadows are particularly striking against a rich skin tone, so trace your upper lashline with a cobalt pencil, and then blend a shimmery aqua shadow over your lids. Highlight your cheekbones with a coppery bronzer, and top that with a rich berry powder on the apples of your cheeks. A sheer red gloss will emphasize your mouth."
