Springy Spirals

Photo: Fernando Milani

Tight, Springy Spirals
Susan Carman, 44

1. While Susan's hair was sopping wet, Dickey massaged a capful of olive oil through it, from roots to ends. The fatty oil (coconut also works) seals frayed cuticles and helps other products go on smoothly. (At home, do this step before you get out of the shower.)

2. A thick styling cream leaves kinky curls soft and buoyant. "Don't be conservative—saturate the hair completely," says Dickey, who used a golf-ball-size dollop of cream on Susan's hair.

3. Once her hair had air-dried, Dickey gently massaged Susan's scalp, shaking her curls loose for extra body.

Star Product: Hair Rules Kinky Curling Cream, $15
Defined Curls

Photo: Fernando Milani

Full, Defined Curls
Rosanne Guararra, 55

1. Rosanne has fine hair, which can be weighed down by heavy styling creams or lotions. To create frizz-proof but still bouncy curls, Dickey combed a lightweight gel through her hair while it was wet.

2. To enhance Rosanne's curls, Dickey blow-dried them with a diffuser. If you have long hair, flip your head upside down while you diffuse to get more volume on top.

3. When Rosanne's hair was 100 percent dry, Dickey rubbed a dime-size amount of oil-based styling cream between his palms, then gently scrunched her curls at the ends. The cream adds shine and prevents hair from poufing up.

Star Product: Curls Curl Gel-les'c-Curl Serum/Gel, $25
Wispy Waves

Photo: Fernando Milani

Loose, Wispy Waves
Megan Channell, 25

1. After gently squeezing excess water from Megan's freshly washed hair, Dickey distributed a handful of light water-based mousse from roots to ends with a wide-tooth comb. If your hair is wavy, avoid heavy styling products—waves lie close to the head and can easily go flat or look greasy.

2. Dickey used his fingers to twirl Megan's hair into defined waves, then let it air-dry.

3. To add shine to Megan's waves and minimize frizz, Dickey ran his fingertips over a pomade, then smoothed them over the ends of her hair and the layers around her face.

Star Product: Jane Carter Solution Wrap & Roll Light Foaming Mousse, $9 Next: Fantasy makeovers that will inspire your new look