Dawn Brown
Executive vice president of brand development at Full Picture, a public relations company
"When I first started working in the fashion business, it felt so heady to be part of that world. But I definitely made my share of dubious style choices. The grunge period in particular—flowered dresses, leggings, slouchy sweaters—was not good to me. Since then I've learned that just because something is fashionable doesn't mean it's right for me. I've learned that matte jersey is not my friend. Neither are cargo pants. I spend most days in some version of a sleeveless sheath dress. I wear clothes that you put on, zip up, and forget about for the rest of the day. It's like my hair—after a Flock of Seagulls period in college and Dynasty-esque hair in the late '80s, I've been faithful to a neat bob. I get it blown out once a week, and that's that."
Signature style rule #4. Find a great salesperson whom you can trust—she can be an amazing resource. Salespeople get to know your taste and your body type. "For me, it's Doris at Barneys New York in Manhattan," says Brown. "I'm not an impulse shopper. I really shop only twice a year, so I tell her exactly what I'm looking for—a new jacket, a blouse I can wear for evening—and she keeps me focused. Without Doris's intervention, I can think of many pieces I would've bought and worn twice."
Ji Baek
Owner of Rescue Beauty Lounge, a Manhattan nail salon
"The best thing I have going for me is my legs, so I keep my hemlines pretty short. I recently chopped off all my midcalf dresses and skirts a few inches above the knee; now I wear them so much more. My hair is the one thing I always keep long, with the exception of an unfortunate Amélie-inspired cut in 2001. After shampooing, I just let it air-dry; I can easily pull it off my face, and I need a trim only a couple of times a year—that's about as much hair maintenance as I'm willing to do. Though I'm very petite, I think the proportion of my waist-length hair works—as long as I keep my skirts short...and my heels high. I don't leave the house in flats, or even kitten heels—they make me feel schlumpy, and I don't like to schlump. If I'm just cooking at home, I still try to look good—not for my husband, just for me. I might be wearing sweatpants, but they're cute and cuffed and fit perfectly. In the kitchen, though, I do go barefoot."
Signature Style Rule #5. Pay attention to your gut...especially if it's spilling over your waistband. When something's too tight, or too low-cut, and you feel uneasy, you know it. "If you have to psych yourself up to wear something out of the house—or the dressing room—it's not the look for you," says Brown.
Thelma Golden
Director of the Studio Museum in Harlem
"For the first half of my life, I wore every kind of hairstyle—from a chin-length bob to an asymmetrical do. I felt like a different person in each one, which was interesting, but it was also confusing. I never really felt like myself until I cut all my hair off in my mid-20s. I only did it to get rid of the damage from a bad relaxer, and I thought it would be a temporary style. But I never looked back. My hair hasn't been longer than an inch in the past 20 years. Sometimes you try for a long time to figure something out, and then you get it—and you just know."
Signature Style Rule #6. Play to the positive. What are your best features? Remember them when you go shopping. And catalog compliments—if they start rolling in every time you wear a certain lipstick shade or style of dress, you're onto something.
Valerie Steele
Director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
"I think the idea that fashion is a mirror of your soul is a delusion. I see fashion as more of a performance—it's a mask, not a mirror. The look I've ultimately come to could be described as fashion nun—minimalist, often black, slightly bohemian. I keep my makeup minimal—a little red lipstick sometimes. And I usually wear glasses; my favorite style is cat's-eye. At the end of the day, I have a slightly puritanical tendency. My husband says, 'You have great legs. Why don't you wear shorts?' But I'm in my 50s, and my inner fashion police just won't let me."
Signature Style Rule #7. Keep having fun! A signature style has consistency—but it should still have some joy in it. "When you stop thinking about your style, when it just becomes a knee-jerk reaction, you can slide from a signature look into a rut," says Steele.
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