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Houston: Bistro Moderne
2525 West Loop S.; 713-297-4383

What's cooking here beyond Tex-Mex, barbecue and all those expense account lunches at fancy hotels? Lately, Houston has begun serving up urbane modern cuisine that highlights homegrown produce.

Philippe Schmit's superb modern French food at Bistro Moderne is available for lunch and dinner in the sleek and comfortable dining room and adjoining café. Try the crab bomb with avocado and cilantro vinaigrette, or the most classic bouillabaisse in Texas. Dinner for two, $90.