Calamaretti pasta

Photo: Stefano Graziani

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"Little squids" are small, ring-shaped pasta, about an inch in diameter. They hold chunky and thin sauces equally well, whether tomato-based or built on eggs or cheese. Fittingly, they're often served with seafood. Let calamaretti take the place of spaghetti in this shrimp recipe or the shells in this seafood pasta dish.

Calamaretti, Pasta di Gragnano, $6.50 for a 17.6-ounce bag,