Day 1

tokyoGo to San Francisco bookstore. Ambush woman in fiction section; ask for her favorite international destination. Buy ticket to Japan.

tokyoLand at Tokyo Narita, jet-lagged and puffy. Call hostel recommended by flight attendant. Wonder how old is too old for bunk beds.

tokyoHostel is near one of Tokyo's most distinctive landmarks, the Asahi Super Dry Hall. Locals' nickname for rooftop sculpture: kin no unchi ("the golden turd").

tokyoAccost young mother on street, ask for restaurant recommendation. Woman politely obliges. Baby begins to cry.

tokyoDinner: deep-fried shrimp, first of many.

Day 2

tokyoWatch tuna auction. Confirm impending extinction of one of ocean's top predators.
tokyoBreakfast: See deep-fried shrimp, above.

tokyoVisit male fishmonger's favorite place in Tokyo: upscale shopping area called Ginza. Wonder whether he's a Prada or Hermès kind of guy.

tokyoDinner at Amor, run by fish-market friend. Menu does not include shrimp.

Engaging in a heartfelt photo session—with young women dressed as cats