The Right Cut for Your Face

Ellen Sexton, 53

What She Wants to Camouflage: Softening jawline

The Right Cut: Slightly shorter around the face than in back, this silhouette gives Ellen's features an instant lift. By styling the layers up and away from her face with a round brush, John enhanced the gravity-defying effect. (He finds that women often want to style their hair close to their face to disguise sagging in the jowls, "but that actually draws attention to the area.") A few shorter layers at the crown create some extra height on top, which offsets any drooping in the lower face. (John cautions against teasing to achieve the same result, though; it always looks unnatural.) Ellen's light, airy bangs are youthful, and camouflage forehead lines—they also put the focus on her brilliantly blue eyes.

What to Avoid: A blunt triangle-shaped cut—especially if it falls below the shoulders—can drag down your face because it's too heavy at the bottom.