Lisa Uvanni, 50, Harsh, inky color
How she missed: Lisa was a study in black and white: her skirt, blouse, and shoes were either one or the other; even her black hair showed white roots.
It's a hit! Lisa's hair had to be stripped of the black dye before Frédéric could add a soft, iced-tea-brown base color. He pointed out that when hair is stripped and then re-dyed, the strands absorb different amounts of color, which often results in natural-looking highlights. He was right: Lisa's new color subtly shimmered with various rich, chocolate shades. Frédéric reshaped her cut, adding layers for body, and then painted only a few auburn highlights on the tips.
The point: Dark, unnaturally monotone haircolor looks severe, especially as you get older. Lighter is more forgiving.
Johanna Bennett, 30, Rose-tinted brunette
How she missed: Lovely pink undertones in a complexion like Johanna's are overwhelmed by a red-pink haircolor.
It's a hit! Frédéric brought out Johanna's startling green eyes with a warm chestnut base color and amber and copper "flame" highlights applied at different places along the hair strand, including the tips. He gave her an angled cut to add body and movement without losing the length she liked. Keeping the highlights closer to the tips around her face, so that the warm brown contrasted with her skin tone, brought out Johanna's exquisite features.
The point: Your haircolor should complement, not match, your skin tone.
Karen Schneider, 25, Fried blonde
How she missed: Too much processing (coloring, straightening, perming) fries hair; Karen's blonde ends were frizzy and dead. And faded color can blend with skin tone, dulling the complexion.
It's a hit! Frédéric trimmed all dead ends and added layers to increase volume and give Karen's cut some shape. Then he gave her a hazelnut base color to warm up her skin tone before adding caramel highlights ("I want to give her lightness without making her blonde, which isn't right for her because of the yellow in her skin," Frédéric said). A golden brown gloss toned down any remaining brassiness and boosted shine.
The point: Hair has to be in good condition for color to look natural and fresh. Don't overprocess.
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