The White Bolognese
The old way: Also known as ragu, most recipes for this meat sauce from Bologna call for at least 2 cups of chopped tomatoes, along with onion, celery, carrot, beef, white wine, milk and nutmeg.
The new way: Chef Gabriel Thompson reinvents the much-loved tagliatelle topper at his New York restaurants, L'Artusi and dell'anima, skipping whole tomatoes completely and using only a teaspoon of tomato paste—which caramelizes slightly, adding a hint of sweetness. The finished dish is outrageously smooth and rich.
Get the recipe: Tagliatelle Bolognese