• 4 ears fresh corn , in their husks
• 4 Tbsp. softened unsalted butter
• 1 Tbsp. chopped cilantro leaves , plus more for garnish
• 1 tsp. fresh lime juice
• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 cup shredded or crumbled queso fresco or mild feta cheese (about 4 ounces)
• Pinch of chipotle powder
• Pinch of ancho powder

Soak corn in cold water for 1 hour. Preheat a gas grill or a ridged grill pan to medium, or prepare a charcoal grill, letting coals burn until covered with white ash.

Grill corn, turning frequently, until the husks are charred, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, put butter, cilantro, and lime juice in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper, and stir to incorporate the ingredients. Spread the butter mixture on a serving platter.

Remove corn from grill and carefully peel back the husks. (Corn will be very hot!) Remove corn silk and, if desired, wrap some strands of husk around top of corn and knot them. Put the hot cobs on the buttered platter and roll to coat. Sprinkle cheese evenly over the ears, turning them to coat. Sprinkle with chipotle and ancho chili powders and a little extra cilantro. Serve immediately.

Adapted from Michy's restaurant and Cuisine à Latina by Michelle Bernstein. Copyright © 2008 (with permission from Houghton Mifflin).