• 2 cups elbow macaroni
• 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 cups milk
• 2 cups mixed shredded semihard cheeses , such as Mimolette, aged Gouda, and Vella dry jack (1/2 pound)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Total time: 35 minutes

Preheat the broiler. In a medium saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the macaroni until al dente; drain well.

Meanwhile, in another medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the flour until a paste forms. Gradually whisk in the milk until smooth. Bring the sauce to a boil over moderately high heat, whisking, until thickened. Off the heat, stir in the mixed shredded cheeses until melted. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the macaroni to the hot cheese sauce and stir to coat; transfer to a 9-by-13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish and sprinkle on the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Broil 4 inches from the heat for 4 minutes, until richly browned. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Make ahead: The cheese sauce can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat thoroughly before adding the macaroni.

Wine Pairing: Grenache can be ripe and juicy enough to stand up to rich cheese dishes. Outpost's 2007 Howell Mountain from Napa or the 2008 Vinos de Terruños Siete 7 from Spain's Navarra region would be fabulous.