• 3/4 cup flaked cooked fish (see Baked Bass with Fingerlings and Zucchini)
• 3/4 cup mashed cooked potatoes
• 1 or 2 small scallions , including tender green part, finely chopped (about 2 Tbsp.)
• 1/4 tsp. grated fresh ginger , plus more to taste
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 Tbsp. butter
• light olive oil , for frying
• Lemon wedges , for serving (optional)

Note: If you want the outside of your fish cakes to be very crusty, brush them with beaten egg and dredge them in panko (about 1/4 cup), those wonderful Japanese breadcrumbs that give such a crusty finish. If desired, you may also vary the seasoning: Add fresh dill, tarragon, or chives in addition to the scallions and ginger.

In a medium bowl, mix fish and potatoes with a fork. If the fish you are using has been fried, scrape off the crusty exterior before flaking because you want the cakes to be smooth inside.

Work in ginger with about 1/8 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Combine ingredients in bowl with fork. If desired, add more of each to taste.

Form the mixture into two round patties about 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Heat butter and/or oil (using a mixture of both will help prevent the butter from burning) in a medium skillet over medium heat; when sizzling, lay fish cakes in skillet. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with lemon wedges (if using) on the side.

Adapted from The Pleasures of Cooking for One, by Judith Jones, copyright © 2009, with permission from the publisher, Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc.