Note: Garlic chives are available year-round at Asian supermarkets and at regular supermarkets in the spring. They have a mild, garlic-like taste. If you can't find them, use regular chives instead.
6 (5-ounce) boneless, skinless salmon fillets, preferably wild king salmon
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 tsp. sugar, divided
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
4 egg yolks
6 round (8-inch) rice paper wrappers (also called spring roll skins)
1 bunch garlic chives (or chives), cut into 4-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. canola oil
Active time: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 hour
Season salmon all over with 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. sugar, and pepper; cover loosely with foil or plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for about 30 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and remaining 1/2 tsp. salt and 1/2 tsp. sugar. Add salmon fillets to bowl and toss gently to coat; set aside (don't cover this time).
Fill a wide, shallow dish with cold water. Working with 1 at a time, dip a rice paper wrapper into water, submerging it until just flexible, about 5 seconds. (Wrapper will become softened and more fragile a few seconds after being taken out of the water, so don't soak too long.) Carefully transfer wrapper to a clean, lint-free kitchen towel. Pile some of the chives (about 4 or 5) in the center, and then arrange a piece of salmon on top, skin side up. Roll salmon snugly in wrapper, envelope-style, pressing out any air as you go. Transfer to a large plate and repeat process with remaining wrappers, chives, and salmon.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Arrange 3 of the wrapped fillets in skillet, chives side down, and fry, flipping once, until crust is golden brown and salmon is just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer briefly to a paper-towel-lined plate and repeat process with remaining wrapped fillets; serve immediately.