Whip the Frothiest Egg Cream
This New York classic—a kind of fizzy chocolate milk that contains neither eggs nor cream—is enjoying a resurgence lately, popping up at new-generation soda fountains and fancy restaurants in places like New York, Philadelphia and Portland, Oregon. A recipe appears in Junior's Dessert Cookbook, based on treats from the landmark chain with four locations on the East Coast. Alan Rosen, grandson of Junior's founder, Harry Rosen, has a very specific method. He uses Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Syrup (a New Yorker article reported on how Fox's fared against a upscale version in a taste test), ice-cold whole milk (you can mix it with ice to get it colder than refrigerator temperature) and equally frigid, fresh seltzer (ensure big, nose-tickling bubbles by either making your own or buying Vintage brand, which we find to be one of the bubbliest seltzers in the supermarket). If you aren't using Junior's special glass that shows exactly how much of each ingredient to use, measure carefully. Put the syrup in first, then pour in the milk (but don't stir yet), and lastly, add the seltzer, pouring it over the back of a long-handled spoon. Keep pouring and stirring vigorously until a thick white foam rises to the top.
Get the recipe: Junior's Chocolate Egg Cream