The array of flours in the supermarket's baking aisle can be confounding. Sure, slapping the name "all-purpose" on the bag does help, but should you be baking with bleached or unbleached—and does it matter? It absolutely does, says baker and acclaimed cookbook author Rose Levy Beranbaum
. It's great to use unbleached flour in bread, she says, but if you use it in cake, everything will look fine—until about 10 minutes after you remove the cake from the oven, when the center will start to sink. Unbleached flour doesn't emulsify—or bind to the other ingredients—in the same way that bleached flour does. However, Beranbaum says, if unbleached flour is all you have, bake the cake in a tube or Bundt pan—the center won't collapse.