paccoj's Blog : October 2007

by paccoj
Description: Hand Tinted Black and White Photos.
Posts (23)

How to Judge a Test Print.

Posted on Oct 31, 2007 6:40 AM

*The goal during printing is usually to make a full-scale Black and White Print that has a full range of Tones and a realistic sense of texture and substance. You may deliberately depart from this goal at times. A test Print are judged for two characteristics: Density and Contrast.
*Density refers to the overall darkness or lightness of the print. It is controlled primarily by the amount of Exposure, the greater the Density of Silver produced, the darker the Print. Exposure can be adjusted either by opening or closing the enlarger lens aperture or by changing the length of the Exposure time.
*Contrast is the difference in brightness between light and dark areas within the print. A full scale Print of normal Contrast and Density has a wide range of Tones: rich blacks, many shades of gray, brilliant whites. A low-contrast or flat Black and White Print seems gray and weak with no real blacks or brilliant whites. A high-contrast Black and White Print seems harsh. Large shadows areas seem too dark and may print as solid black; highlights seem too light and may be completely white. Texture and details are missing in shadows, highlights or both. The contrast of a Black and White Photo is mainly controlled by the grade of paper used.
*I use multi grade,matte enlarging paper. It gives me good contrast and fair density in the shoulder area. I Expose my prints in the middle gray area of the Zone scale. It allows me to Hand Tint all areas of my Print if I choose. I use the rules of third in my composition and balance. I then use my " 2 Zone Technique to apply my colors to the final Black and White Photo. It gives my Photo Art a three dimensional effect. I always add colors to my shadow areas to enhance texture and details unseen to the naked eye. I enjoy adding colors where there is a lack to enhance my balance and composition. This give my Black and White Photo Art that Special touch.
*I am the only Photo Artist in the world that use the above mention techniques. My Photo Art is unique because of this Technique which I developed myself. Don't miss out on a chance to own tomorrows Piccasso. They are the best investment in todays Art world. Its still affordable, as time goes on those who own Black and White Photo Art will see their investment appreciate like no other type of Art. The main reason is, most Photos are taken with a digital camera and won't be around long enough to appraise, they will fade away in due time. My Photo Art matures and the Colors become more intense as they age gracefully. They are like a like fine vintage bottle of wine. If you have the chance to buy a Black and White Print do so. there are not many left on the market. I recommend going to flea markets or garage sell to look for these forgotten treasures of the past.

0 Comments
 

The Zone scale.

Posted on Oct 31, 2007 6:38 AM

The zone scale at right has ten steps and is based on Ansel Adam's description of zones in his book The negative. Zone 0(zero) relates to the deepest black print value that photographic printing paper can produce. Zone V corresponds to a middle gray, the tone of a standard-gray test card of 18 percent reflectance. Zone IX relates to the lightest possible print value-pure white of the paper base.
The Zone System allows you to visualizes how the tones in any scene will look in a print and to choose either a realistic interpretation or a departure from reality. Using the Classic way to develop and expose your prints, and understanding the Zone System will help you get improved result in the final print stages.
This is why I use Color film to produce my Black and White Prints. Color film reacts to Black and White enlargement paper better than your average Black and White film. Color film records the colors as they appear, and Black and White film records tones, which are directly related to each tone scale. Color film gives greater details and contrast than black and White film.
I use the Zone System in my final print stages. This is where I can dodge and burn my details. My Photos are printed in Zones III to VII, it allows me to Hand Tint my Black and White Print with vivid or soft colors. The shades of gray intensifies the hue and tint of each color.

0 Comments
 

God Never Makes a Mistake.

Posted on Oct 30, 2007 3:57 AM

I hope that those are helpless keep trying. I am a wonderful Father and proud of how I got here. I have no real regrets. I pray first for my Mother and father that they may see what God has seen in me. I was a Diamond in the ruff.
A Diamond in its raw state is almost unrecognizable, it looks like a piece of old burnt coal. It has to be refined, cleaned and cut. Each part that is cut off improves the quality of the stone itself. I am more than certain if Diamonds could talk, they would tell you how painful each cut hurts. But when all the dirt and undesirable chunks are removed you will see underneath a Beautiful Gem. We as Humans are all Diamonds and Gems in Gods Eyes. So let GOD complete the process of removing all of our burdens. He knows that until then you can't shine or Glow.

0 Comments
 

Hopeless ? Never give up.

Posted on Oct 30, 2007 2:34 AM

* I have hope and faith that one day we will find our purpose. We all have burdens to carry, but God will never place a burden on your back that you can't carry. They are placed their to strengthen our weaknesses and to correct our faults. Those who see their problems as curse or as a form of punishment from God has already fail the test.
* I have a story to tell. I recall my then father passing away from a heart attack when I was 5 years old. I will never forget the good times we had together and the love that he gave me. I will always miss him. My mother gave up and kind of forgot about us, I was the middle child of seven. My older brother was born with cerebral palsy. We had to take care of him and see to it that we kept him clean and fed while my mother worked nights.I was the Man of the house at age seven, which meant that when criminals tried to break in and take what little we had I would always keep my Butcher knife under my pillow to ward them off. I recall the times when they tried to molest my little sister late at night I would wake up and let them know that I might not be a real man and if they come back I would kill them. Most never came back and I thank God for that. I would always pray that God would give me strength to become what I always wanted, a Father. I recall when they repeatedly molested my handicapped brother, I could never catch them in the act, but he would tell me about, it tore me apart. Again I ask God to become my Father and watch over us, I could not take seeing the abuse any longer. Things got better, people started respecting me more and most of the abuse stopped.
* Then when I was 10 my mother started drinking with her men friends and having fun. Again I had to become the man of the house again, God knew how tired, afraid, and lonely I felt, again he gave me strength. I would pray that one day my father would come back to help. I was in denial, He died 4 years prior, I never gave up, I continued to pray the same prayer day in and day out. Then my mother started physically abusing us. My handicapped brother became also a Victim. I will never forget how we got beat for doing nothing, we were left alone to take care of the house hold. Then the same men that drank with my mother started abusing her as well. I would helplessly watch all knowing that they were stronger and bigger than me, nobody cared. I always prayed that life would get better. It only got worse. My father in heaven help me keep the faith. Hebrews 11:3.
*When I turned 18, my mother told me that my father was alive, I laughed and ask her what was our first dogs name. I thought that somebody may have contacted the wrong person by accident, she confirmed. She told me that my father was in Los Angeles, and he wanted to see me. I contacted him and met him for the first time when I was 19. I met him once more when I was 20. I have not seen him since. Its been over 25 years since then. Now I have a son 24, and 2 daughters 12 and 14. I have became again what I always wanted, a Father. I miss him dearly and try to understand why. It would be nice to see him again and let him know that he has three wonderful grand children. I am one of the best Fathers in the world .
* I heard that my Father takes Photos and is darkroom specialist, my son loves graphic art, and I have developed my own 2 Zone Technique to create Black and White Photos the Classic way. I have taken Photos since the age of 8,its been now 37 years later and I have the only true Black and White Photo Art. I am the new Kodak or Adams of Photography. No one does it better. I am applying for a patent on my process and technique. This Technique will change Photo Art as we know it today. I guess the gene pool has an impact on who we are and what we can become. My Father has no idea that I have became what I always wanted. To become a well know Photo Artist and a Good Father and role model for my children. One day he will see that I was never a burden in his life, and that he should have never given up on me.
* I have started a reading Club to help children who can't read by offering free post cards to all school age children. Being able to read help lift my burden and make it easier to bear. I want to see our youth exchange post cards again. I want each youth to send at least one Post card a week to somebody that they love. I never got any mail when I was growing up. I know that if our youth learn how to write and send post cards their love ones and family can have keep sakes and memories that are priceless. Nothing can take the place of the written word or the spoken word. Its love 101, telling some that you care and are their for them. So if you know some one that you have not heard from surprise them with a hand written post cards. It will make their day Smile.
* Never give up, just keep trying and your burdens to bear will make you stronger in ways you will never know. The strengths that you need you will receive through your trails and tribulations.
KEEP THE FAITH, DON'T GIVE UP, JUST KEEP TRYING.

2 Comments
 

Dodging and Burning in Black and White Photograph

Posted on Oct 30, 2007 2:17 AM

The overall Density of a Black and White Photos may appear to be
normal except some areas seem to be to light or dark.
Dodging and burning in are two methods of giving different exposures
to different parts of a print.
If an area is too dark, Dodging is called for. That area of the
Print is simply shadowed during part of the initial exposure time.
A dodging tool is useful: it is simply a piece of card board
attached to the end of wire. Your hand or a finger, a piece of card-
board or any other object can be used. Dodging is effective when details
in the shadow areas of the negative image. Dodging of areas that lack
details or texture too long a time produces a murky gray tone in the
Print.
Burning in is the opposite procedure, often used when part of the
black and white print is too light. After the entire negative has
received exposure that is correct for most areas, the light is
blocked from most of the Print while the area that is too light
receives extra exposure. A large piece of card board that can be
cut to an appropriate shape or size. Your hands can be used, cupping
or spreading yours fingers out so that light reaches the paper only
where you want it to.
Some areas may need to be darken, you can flash these areas with
a small penlight flashlight. unlike burning in, which darkens the
image, flashing fogs the paper: it adds a solid gray or black tone.
There a other light sources that you can use. A cone around the end
of a penlight works very well in texture and detail areas of the
Print. You can devise your on Techniques on what works best for
you.
Whether you are dodging, burning in or flashing, it is important
to keep your dodging or burning tool, your hands or penlight in
constant motion from side to side so that tones of the affected
area blend into the rest of the Print.
This process of dodging and burning in is a part of "Zone 1",
(zone A,zone B). I used "Zone 1" to manipulate my tones in the final
Print. I usual range in my Black and White Photos, zone III to zone
VIII. In "Zone 2" when I apply my Hand Tints the colors seem to
levitate. My " 2 Zone Technique " allows me freedom that no computer
in the World can duplicate. When Zone 2 harmonizes with Zone 1 the
Prints surpass any computer generated Print. I become a conductor in
the visual world of Hand Tinted Photo Art. The music is universal and
soothing to ones eye. I love creating works of Art where the spoken
word becomes obsolete. Sight is the only unspoken language that exist.

 

How Time and Temperature Affect Development.

Posted on Oct 30, 2007 2:08 AM

I develop my Black and White Prints the Classic way. I take advantage of the
Print paper or film emulsion by extending or reducing the development time.
I try to reveal unseen details and textures in my Black and white Photo Art.
My Prints are in the zones III through VII, mostly middle grays. I do this to
enhance any of my colors that I choose to use on my prints. For example the color
red place on a middle gray takes on a different mood than your typical red.
The colors become more intense and vivid. This is what makes Hand Tinting so
unique. You can bend or break rules that gives you more latitude in the final
Black and White Photo. I use my "2 zone Technique" to determine where I should
place my colors. I use the rules of third as a guide in creating my Photo Art.
All of my Photos are a work of Art. Never computer aided in any way. My Photos
are original and signed.
Of all the creative controls at a Photographer disposal and most useful
is development time. The longer the developer is allowed to act on the film,
the greater the number of silver bromide crystal converted to metallic silver,
the darker the negative seems to become. The ability of development time to
control contrast and density is due primarily to the way the film emulsion is
constructed. The crystals of silver bromide that will develop into the negative
image lie both on below the surface of the emulsion. As exposure increases,
the number of exposed crystals and their depth in the emulsion increase. When
the develop goes to work, it gets at the surface crystals immediately but
needs extra time to soak into the emulsion and develop the crystal below the
surface. This applies to Photo Print paper as well.
The temperature of the developer also needs to be taken into account. Most
Photographic chemicals and even the wash water take longer to work as their
temperature drops. All solutions work faster at higher temperatures. The
higher the temperature, the shorter the develop time needed. The recommended
temperature is 68 F,(29 C);this temperature combines the most efficient chemical
activity with the least softening of the film emulsion and in addition is a
practical temperature to maintain in the average darkroom. Higher temperatures
may be recommended with very dilute developers.
I develop my Black and White Prints the Classic way. This allows me the freedom
to obtain any type of Print. I print some of my Photos to show more details and
texture ,some are Print to show details in the shadow areas. I try to expose my
shoulder and toe in the middle gray zone V.

0 Comments
 

Printing the Positive for Hand Tinting.

Posted on Oct 23, 2007 12:21 AM

Printmaking is the most exciting aspects of Photography. Black and White Print making lends itself towards a leisurely creation. You can fine tune the image-by enlarging it and altering the tones of White through Black. You can also reduce or increase the contrast between them. Cropping the edges readys the Print for final viewing.
Photo Printing Paper is coated with a light-sensitive emulsion containing crystals of silver atoms combined with bromine or chlorine atoms or both. Light is passed through the negative and onto the paper. After the print is exposed it is placed in a developer where chemical action converts the crystals into a dark metallic silver. Then the Print is place in a stop bath to halt the action of the developer, then fixer, which removes undeveloped and unexposed crystals, and finally it is washed and dried.
All of my Black and White Photos are in the range of zone "IV" through zone "VII". This allows the Hand Tinting to take on it's on Mood. The colors have a tendency to jump from the Paper.
What makes my Black and White Photo Art Unique ? I use only color film to my Print Black and White Photos the Classic way. It gives me a wonderful guide to know the true colors of the scene for future Tinting. With Black and White film you will only have shades of greys for reference.
Color films has more contrast due to the nature of it emulsion. In color film red is red, blue is blue, and yellow is yellow. Black and White Print paper responds well in the toe and shoulder areas. Density becomes more apparent in the shadows zones.

0 Comments
 

How Black-and-White Film sees Color.

Posted on Oct 22, 2007 12:06 AM

The process that creates a picture on a piece of film involves a reaction between light and the sliver bromide crystals spread through the gelatin of the emulsion layer.
A negative is born when millions of exposed silver bromide crystals are converted to Silver metal by the developer.
Silver bromide crystals are light sensitive, they don't respond equally to all wavelenghts of light. Colors are actually different wave-lenghts within the visible part of the electromagnetic spectrum, these wavelenghts must be factored in when making Black-and-White Photos. Different types of Film responds color differently. Orthochromatic film responds well to shorter wavelenghts, toward the violet to yellow end of the spectrum. Panchromatic Film gives more of a natural appearance. This film records most all colors, red through violet. Infra red Film only records visible colors as well as some longer wavelenghts that are not visible. Its' toward the ultra-violet end of the spectrum. Unless the silver bromide is properly exposed, they will respond variably to shorter wave lenghts, starting at ultra-violet through blue green.

0 Comments
 

Exposure for Specific Tones.

Posted on Oct 15, 2007 5:54 AM

How is it possible to decide in advance what tone an important area will have in the final Photograph ? It is quite simple if you know that for any area of uniform brightness, a reflected-light meter will recommend an exposure that will render that brightness in the middle gray in the Black and White Photo.
Two areas often metered when calculating exposures this way are skin tones and shadow areas. An exposure for a portrait is often based on the skin tone of the subject. The other area frequently metered as a basis for exposure is the darkest area in which the photographer wants to keep a full sense of texture and detail.
One object that can be metered is the palm of your hand. Another useful substitution reading is from a gray test card, it reflects 18 % of the light falling on it and a white side that reflects 90 % of the light. A gray card is often used to balance the light in a studio setup or when copying an object such as a painting. It is also useful in color photography as a standard against which the color balance of a print can be matched.
With our digital camera all of the above want apply. Most digital cameras are automated and advanced that you simply point and shoot. Choosing your f/stops or apertures are not important in obtaining a quality print or a rendition of any scene. The photographer hands are tied and creativity takes a back seat.
I will never shoot a digital camera due to those restraints and a lack of negative, which I will need to create my Hand Tinted Black and White photo Art. I love to manipulate my fully manual camera to interpret each scene. The unaided eye will give you unlimited freedom to allow you to capture each scene as you like. Roll film will some day return to our main stream because the burden and lack of freedom of our digital cameras. The rules of taking photos the classic way still apply in the Art world. Technology has become a stumbling block for our Art world, but true artist don't need any computer aides.

0 Comments
 

How Time and Temperture Affect Development.

Posted on Oct 15, 2007 5:51 AM

I develop my Black and White Prints the Classic way. I take advantage of the
Print paper or film emulsion by extending or reducing the development time.
I try to reveal unseen details and textures in my Black and white Photo Art.
My Prints are in the zones III through VII, mostly middle grays. I do this to
enhance any of my colors that I choose to use on my prints. For example the color
red place on a middle gray takes on a different mood than your typical red.
The colors become more intense and vivid. This is what makes Hand Tinting so
unique. You can bend or break rules that gives you more latitude in the final
Black and White Photo. I use my "2 zone Technique" to determine where I should
place my colors. I use the rules of third as a guide in creating my Photo Art.
All of my Photos are a work of Art. Never computer aided in any way. My Photos
are original and signed.
Of all the creative controls at a Photographer disposal and most useful
is development time. The longer the developer is allowed to act on the film,
the greater the number of silver bromide crystal converted to metallic silver,
the darker the negative seems to become. The ability of development time to
control contrast and density is due primarily to the way the film emulsion is
constructed. The crystals of silver bromide that will develop into the negative
image lie both on below the surface of the emulsion. As exposure increases,
the number of exposed crystals and their depth in the emulsion increase. When
the develop goes to work, it gets at the surface crystals immediately but
needs extra time to soak into the emulsion and develop the crystal below the
surface. This applies to Photo Print paper as well.
The temperture of the developer also needs to be taken into account. Most
Photographic chemicals and even the wash water take longer to work as their
temperture drops. All solutions work faster at higher tempertures. The
higher the temperture, the shorter the develop time needed. The recommended
temperture is 68 F,(29 C);this temperture combines the most efficient chemical
activity with the least softening of the film emulsion and in addition is a
practical temperture to maintain in the average darkroom. Higher tempertures
may be recommended with very dilute devlopers.
I develop my Black and White Prints the Classic way. This allows me the freedom
to obtain any type of Print. I print some of my Photos to show more details and
texture ,some are Print to show details in the shadow areas. I try to expose my
shoulder and toe in the middle gray zone.

0 Comments
 

Inside a Modern view camera.

Posted on Oct 1, 2007 2:37 AM

I use my view (6cm X 7cm) camera because it allows me the freedom that lets me capture my visions and imaginations on film. There is no limit on what the view camera can accomplish. The user can manipulate the movements the same way a conductor dictates to his orchestra how to play a passage of music. It is my best asset and I find new ways to invent my Photos.
Unlike most cameras, which are permanently aligned so that the lens and film are exactly parallel, a view camera can be deliberately unaligned. The view camera can change and control an image due to its movements. Two basic movements are swings and tilts. Swings are movements around the vertical axis of either lens or film, that is, either twisted to the left or right. Tilts are movements around the horizontal axis of the lens or film, that is it is tipped forward or backward.
The first movements, rise and fall, change the placement of the image on the film by changing the position of the film by changing the position of the film or lens relative to one another. Rise and fall of the back changes the location of the image but does not effect its shape
Shift is a sideways movements of either the front or the back of the camera. It is exactly the same as rise and fall except the movements takes place from side to side. Image shape does not change with back-shift, but does change slightly with front shift. Shift of the lens affects the spatial relationship of objects because the lens is now viewing them from a different point.
A front-tilt, does not change distances inside the camera and thus does not affect image size or shape. But it does affect focus by altering the len's focal plane. When the angle between film and lens is changed by tilting the back of the camera, the shape of the object changes considerably and the focus changes some what.
Swing is a sideways twisting of either the front or the back of the camera around the vertical axis. A back-swing just like a back-tilt moves one part of the film closer to the lens while moving another part farther away. Front-swing, since it involves swiveling the lens to the left or right, skews the focal plane of the lens to one side or another. The general effect of this is to this is to create a sharply defined zone of focus that travels at angle across an object.
The practical application of the four movements are virtually endless. Some are subtle and complex, particularly when used in combination.

0 Comments
 

Why buy Black and White Photo Art.

Posted on Oct 1, 2007 2:26 AM

I want to bring Hand Tinting back in the main stream. Since we have our computers and high tech soft ware we fail to realize that computer generated imagery or photos are not the same as in the past. The reason is, that the computer lacks Zone "A" and Zone "B". Its merely a copy. All computer generated photos or prints will oxidize or fade. The sole purpose of making Photographs are to record and document historical events. Archiving Photos that are computer generated defeats this goal. In museums you will only find Black and White Photos, they know that any other type of print won't last long enough to achieve their objective.
When we look back in the early 1800's we see images that were produced that still exist today. What if our Great masters used pixels to record there Art. They would have never dreamed of wasting there time and effort to gain fame by employing methods other than the Classical techniques to create their Art. When history is written, those who have negatives and Hand developed Prints will have works of Arts that will be priceless.
The Great masters such Van Goghs, Picasso's, rembrandts, Cezanne's, Seraut's, El greco,s, Constables, Botticellis, Angelico's and Bounnarroti's would not exist today as we know them if they had used digital assisted soft ware to create their works of Art. I have over 50,000 images and over 90,000 negatives that will be worth more as time passes on. Photo Art has been around in the main stream for quite some time. No one has change or improved on what George Eastman, Joeseph Niepce, Giovanni Battista, Thomas Wedgwood and Louis Jacques Mande Daguerre attempted . The computer can never allow any one the freedom that gives you the ability to capture an image as on sees it. Ansel Adams was the last person to that gave us a new set of rules and technique.
I have develop a "2" Zone that takes his ideas and the other great Photographers of the past and improve how we see and reproduce our Photos.
Don't miss out, if you can have the luck of buying a old Photo of the past, you will own tommorrows Picassos' Van Goghs' or even an Rembrandt.
The only worth while investment in todays Art Market will be a Hand Tinted Photograph. The other Great works of Art merely exchange owners and becomes more expensive in the process.

0 Comments