Provence, 1970: M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, James Beard, and the Reinvention of American Taste
By Luke Barr
320 pages;
Clarkson Potter
In the winter of 1970, the food writer M.F.K. Fisher headed to the
Provençal city of Arles. It was a grim, depressing trip: restaurants were
closed; hotel clerks were brusque; and Fisher, at age 62, was somewhat
disenchanted with her life. Other culinary luminaries, such as Julia Child and
James Beard, were also in France, and though all three met, dined, laughed and drank
together at various times, each was in the midst of a very personal decision
about the direction of their lives and their professions. Hard-core foodies will
delight in how these choices ultimately influenced American cuisine (out with
stiff, grande-dame French dining; in with a relaxed, international approach),
and anyone who loves to eat will drool over descriptions of Child's butter-rubbed
roasted chicken and Fisher's homemade dried
tangerines. The author, Luke Barr, great-nephew of Fisher, used Fisher's
personal diaries to examine her passion for redirecting life according to her
inner compass, a move that was to cost her friends and even lovers. Required
reading for anyone who fears a little life-upending change—even if
they know change will bring happiness and relief.
— Leigh Newman