Photo: Dolle's Candyland

This week, in a fit of seaside nostalgia, I'm thinking about salt water taffy. I've loved it ever since setting foot in Stutz Candies on Long Beach Island, N.J., 25 years ago. They had me at the packaging: wax paper wrappers, script lettering, pastel colors--and inside, that stretchy, sticky candy--vanilla, peppermint, orange cream--that'd melt in a hot second if you left it in the car. Since then, almost every other salt water taffy I've encountered has had a similar old-timey look (pictured here, the wonderfully vintage-looking taffy from Dolle's, an Ocean City, Maryland, institution).

Salt water taffy is, alas, not made with salt water, but good ol' sugar and corn syrup. Despite the simple ingredient list (it also contains sea salt and flavorings), I still would not attempt making it myself--especially after watching this video of a Maine candy shop's impressively powerful 100-year-old machines in action. New York confectioner Marisa Wu, however, is undeterred by the upper body strength required to twist and pull salt water taffy by hand. Her fancy-flavored salt water taffy (think coconut, hibiscus and black cherry) are just hitting stores now. Until they reach your neighborhood, you can order them through Brooklyn's Bedford Cheese Shop, which will ship anywhere, allowing you to combine your childhood memories with your adult palate--no matter where you are.